Milan once again became the epicenter of fashion’s emotions. Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection was not just a presentation of new silhouettes but a true aesthetic manifesto. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons set out to challenge the very foundations that have shaped fashion for decades: what clothes are for, what functions they serve, and in what contexts they should appear. The result was a spectacle full of tension, contrasts, and provocative juxtapositions that surprised the audience and left critics leaving the room with questions larger than the clothes themselves.
“We are trying to create a new kind of elegance but for now,” admitted Miuccia Prada backstage, standing in the spotlight and at the center of journalists’ attention. Her words perfectly captured the spirit of the show: instead of offering ready made answers, it invited reflection. Must fashion simply be a beautiful adornment to life, or can it serve as a philosophical commentary on the contemporary world?
The show opened with looks that immediately drew attention: military style short-sleeve shirts with sharp pleats paired with elbow-length gloves and glittering sequin stilettos. Onto the runway stepped a vision of fashion deliberately playing with context silhouettes that evoked both the night shift of a security guard and an evening at the opera. Prada and Simons demonstrated that the boundaries between formality and everyday wear are fluid, and that clothing can be both uniform and couture.
The lingerie inspired theme, present in trends for several seasons now, was interpreted here with extraordinary subtlety and wit. Bra like tops appeared as ethereal fragments of chiffon that barely touched the skin, creating an impression of fleeting sensuality. Skirts were reduced to sheer tubes, suspended on delicate ribbons. These designs, too fragile at first glance to function in everyday life, seemed made for the lens both of a professional camera and a smartphone. This was fashion demanding to be documented, more performance than practical attire.
One of the most fascinating aspects of the collection was the transformation of classic sartorial archetypes. Polo shirts long associated with sporty elegance were enlarged and stiffened, morphing into monumental coats or flared cardigans with an almost sculptural quality. Cocktail dresses adorned with jeweled collars, rather than serving as reliable evening staples, were worn with effortless nonchalance under heavy leather coats. Tradition was stripped of predictability and given a new, striking identity.
Skirts, always a hallmark of Prada, this season surprised with their variety: from voluminous romantic shapes to sharp geometric pleats to the restraint of pencil cuts. Many silhouettes also referenced kilts, dirndls, and evening lace. Panels were carefully tied together with grosgrain ribbons, lending an artisanal sensibility and underscoring that in this collection, every detail mattered.
As always with Prada, the scenography was an integral part of the story. A vast, gleaming orange floor at the Fondazione Prada created a theatrical stage for looks shimmering in vibrant hues. Vivid shades from raspberry shirts to neon dresses intermingled with more classic touches, such as a bright yellow coach’s jacket. This chromatic dialogue not only illuminated the show but also symbolized the freedom the designers sought to express through the collection.
Backstage, Raf Simons was direct: “We talked a lot about freedom about the freedom of thinking about clothing.” He cited the hippie gesture of throwing a military jacket over a floral dress, a sign of rebellion and independence, but also proof that garments need not obey rigid rules. “A woman can feel just as incredible, free, chic, and luxurious in a uniform as in a dress,” he added.
In press materials, Prada emphasized that the collection was a response to the uncertainty of the present moment. “Clothes that can change, adapt, and evolve,” she wrote. Simons added: “The world today is harsh, but at the same time still full of beauty. We have to learn to live with that and find balance.”
In an era where the world grapples with growing political and social tensions, and everyday life demands structure and order, Prada and Simons champion the opposite: freedom, fluidity, openness. Their message feels simple, yet deeply necessary: in fashion, anything is possible if we dare to look beyond the frame.
Photos courtesy of Prada
No comments:
Post a Comment