For the house of Carolina Herrera, a new chapter has just begun. For the first time in its history, one of the brand’s major collections was unveiled in Europe. Creative director Wes Gordon chose Madrid as the stage a city of passion, culture, and striking contrasts, which became not only the backdrop but also the beating heart of the entire show. On Plaza Mayor, a historic square that has witnessed coronations, festivals, and even bullfights, fashion took center stage in a spectacle filled with drama, color, and modern interpretations of Spanish traditions.
The show, set in the very heart of Habsburg Madrid, was already a milestone thanks to its location alone. Never before had the monumental Plaza Mayor hosted such an event. This time, however, its centuries-old walls surrounded a parade of artistry and luxury. Guests filled the balconies and terraces of surrounding buildings, tourists climbed onto rooftops for a better view, and the public pressed against the barriers, captivated by models striding down a runway that stretched for more than a kilometer. Gordon, who confessed his affection for the square, dressed it with powder-pink pergolas, softening its solemnity with a touch of poetic elegance.
The runway brought together some of Spain’s most celebrated models, from Miriam Sánchez to Esther Cañadas and Blanca Padilla. The garments they presented were infused with the essence of Madrid. Embroidered carnations, jacquard motifs, and three-dimensional violets referencing local candies shared the stage with roses inspired by Retiro Park’s historic gardens. The collection’s palette mirrored both Goya’s skies and the cinematic vibrancy of Almodóvar’s films shifting from burgundy and saffron tones to Herrera’s iconic red, balanced by shades of pure black, crisp white, and the delicate pinks of Madrid sunsets.
Gordon embraced Spanish culture boldly, reinterpreting it with contemporary refinement. Some silhouettes echoed the attire of the torero, with hip lines reminiscent of the montera, while fitted trousers subtly recalled goyesque heritage. Meanwhile, ruffled sleeves and sculpted bodices nodded to the chulapa dresses of Madrid, reimagined with Herrera’s signature sophistication. Even the fabrics told the story of the city: plaid wools evoked the cobblestones of Plaza Mayor, lace recalled the mantillas of old boutiques, and shimmering embroidery mimicked the wrought iron grilles of traditional windows.
As in past international showcases in Rio de Janeiro and Mexico City the house of Herrera sought collaboration with local artisans. This time, Spanish creators enriched the collection with their artistry. Palomo reinvented the house’s iconic white shirt with ruffled collars and a retro flair. Capas Seseña, a legendary Madrid atelier established in 1901, paid tribute to dandies and the late Reinaldo Herrera’s timeless style. Artist Sybill A contributed avantgarde gowns, while jewelry designers Andrés Gallardo and Levens adorned the looks with unique pieces from pearl studded carnation brooches to glass jewels shaped like petals and drops of water.
The SS26 collection was more than fashion it was an ode to Madrid’s soul. For Gordon, the city is one of the world’s most beautiful, brimming with energy, art, and contradictions. Iconic Spanish figures such as Paloma Picasso and the Duchess of Alba inspired the collection, embodying strength, elegance, and theatrical flair. Their spirit, alongside the city’s rhythm and vitality, became the foundation of Herrera’s vision for spring 2026.
The evening concluded with the unveiling of the house’s latest fragrance, La Bomba, fronted by model Vittoria Ceretti. It was the perfect closing act, blending scent, music, fashion, and performance into one celebration. More than just a runway presentation, Carolina Herrera’s SS26 show was a love letter to Madrid a city that has now claimed its place in the brand’s history forever.
Photos courtesy of Carolina Herrera
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