In the world of fashion, there are shows and there are... spectacles. There are presentations of collections and there are moments when fashion collides with history with a bang worthy of the triumphal march of the legionaries. Dolce & Gabbana served us just such a moment this season, turning the Archaeological Park by the Colosseum into a catwalk so glamorous that Julius Caesar himself would have nodded approvingly. Maybe even in a gold sequined coat.
Via Sacra - the first street of ancient Rome, where triumphal imperial retinues once marched - was paved not with marble, but with fashion of the highest order. It was here, amidst the ruins and history written in stone, that the duo of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed the Alta Moda collection, a tribute to the classicism of Rome, but also... the extravagance of the 50s and 60s. Sound like a clash of two worlds? It does. But that's where the genius of Italian fashion lies - in its ability to flirt with excess and elegance at the same time.
The collection was a real theatrical spectacle. It was watched by more than 450 invited guests - the names were not revealed, but one can guess that all those who know that haute couture is not just tailoring, but a philosophy of life were there. As usual, the designers opted for a glamorous, uncompromising style: skirts printed with frescoes and mosaics, gowns inspired by ancient costumes, models in golden armor reminiscent of Roman warriors. The effect? Monumental.
Among the details that caught the eye of even the pickiest fashionistas were embroideries depicting the Capitoline wolf, sequin-embroidered Latin quotes and even gold belts with the words “Veni Vidi Vici.” Draped gowns, on the other hand, were reminiscent of classical stolae - ancient, but served in a form worthy of the Cannes red carpet. There were also references to Cleopatra, the one played by Elizabeth Taylor, of course, because, after all, we're not talking about history here, but the pop culture archetype of female divinity.
Dolce & Gabbana gracefully blended worlds: ancient Rome and 1950s Hollywood. And all this in a setting worthy of a fresco from a villa in Pompeii - only more sequins. Long capes of crimson chiffon, intense shades of turquoise and orange, fans of pleats and fit-and-flare cuts that accentuated the waist as only Italian designers can. It was fashion with flair, for those who know that “less” doesn't always mean “more.”
What makes this collection unique is not only the inspiration of history, but also the way it is reinterpreted. The designers are not playing with costumes. They are building a new world, in which what is ancient becomes even more modern than the futuristic silhouette from Paris fashion weeek. Each piece of costume is a story - of power, femininity, drama and glamour. And all this surrounded by marbles, ruins and... camera flashes.
Jewelry accents and embellishments are also noteworthy. Precious stones, embroideries depicting marble busts, black feathers that looked like they were pulled from Roman mythology, and gilded details reminiscent of ancient coins. All of this was coming together in one narrative: this was not just a fashion show. This was a manifestation of empire-level aesthetics.
Need I add that the entire show was not only a journey through the eras, but also through layers of luxury, available only to a select few? It was not a proposition for the masses. Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda has always been a closed, almost secretive line. Here you won't find discount codes, no “buy 2, get the third free” promotions. Here, every inch of fabric is sewn with the elite in mind. And while it may sound snobbish, that's why we love this fashion so much - for its unattainability, for the dream it spreads out before us like a Roman horizon.
Alta Moda has never been democratic - and that is precisely why it is so fascinating. It is fashion for the initiated, for those who do not ask about the price, but about the idea. Rome has become its natural stage: majestic, unassuming, timeless. Just like the collection itself.
Dolce & Gabbana reminded us that fashion can be a total art - and that sometimes all we really need is a moment of luxurious exaggeration, in which sequins tell the story of an empire and a dress becomes a monument. After all, as Cleopatra herself (or at least Elizabeth Taylor) said: if you have to look like a goddess, at least let the emperor notice.
Photos courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana
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