Author @feldmez
Ralph Lauren’s return to the menswear runway after more than a decade was neither a sentimental nod to the archives nor a nostalgic spectacle meant to comfort longtime fans. Instead, it was a deliberate, precisely constructed manifesto a story about identity, time, and a style that refuses to submit to fashion seasons. Within the monumental interiors of the Palazzo Ralph Lauren in Milan, American fashion once again spoke with a full, confident voice.
The Fall/Winter 2026 collection unfolded like a tapestry woven from many stories: the designer’s personal memories, the brand’s aesthetic codes, and a vision of the contemporary man. This very multilayered quality the collision of past and present became the axis of the entire show.
Lauren has always emphasized that his work neither began nor ended with a single product. “I started with a tie, but it was never just about the tie it was a way of life,” he has said, defining his approach to fashion as a narrative of lifestyle, aspiration, and individuality. This philosophy resonated powerfully in the latest collection, which drew inspiration from different realms of the men’s wardrobe from the relaxed elegance of Purple Label to a refreshed, more self-aware preppy spirit within the Polo line.
The very first looks revealed a clear flirtation with the 1990s, the decade in which the brand shaped its global identity. Fleece details, classic camouflage motifs, and rich intarsias appeared in modern proportions, while sporty silhouettes such as Polo Sport rugby shirts in bands of orange and lavender evoked the spirit of the era without slipping into costume. Loose denim and nonchalant layering underscored the ease that defined that decade.
As the show progressed, the narrative shifted toward Ivy League aesthetics, unmistakably filtered through a contemporary sensibility. A plaid suit paired with lace-up boots and a hunting cap took on new meaning, while outfits built on classic preppy codes were boldly mixed: a houndstooth jacket, canary-yellow cardigan, striped Oxford shirt, and corduroy Kelly trousers formed ensembles balancing elegance and nonchalance. Details like a logo baseball cap added an urban edge.
In the later part of the show, the collection matured, slowing its pace and settling into a more reflective tone. Earthy browns, forest greens, and heavier, noble fabrics began to dominate. Herringbone wools, checks, and hunting motifs created silhouettes with an almost historical character. Coats inspired by military uniforms served as a reminder that American style has always been a dialogue between functionality and elegance.
A significant aspect of the collection was the emphasis on craftsmanship and authentic heritage. Ralph Lauren once again spotlighted collaborations with Indigenous creators, including projects within the Authentic Makers program and the Artist in Residence initiative developed with the brand TÓPA and artist Naiomi Glasses? (Wait correction) Neil Zarama of the Chiricahua Apache Nation. These pieces were not mere aesthetic additions, but conscious gestures a reminder that true luxury is born of history, handcraft, and respect for culture.
Although deeply rooted in the past, the collection did not lack contemporary discipline. Minimalist, restrained silhouettes economical in form and impeccably tailored proved that timelessness does not exclude relevance. The finale distilled this philosophy to its essence: elegant suits paired with distressed leather, a tuxedo combined with a metallic puffer jacket contrasts that, in Lauren’s hands, formed a coherent whole.
The symbolic closing belonged to Tyson Beckford, a 1990s icon and one of the most recognizable models associated with the brand. His walk in a soft brown coat acted as a clasp binding the entire story together a tribute to the past and, at the same time, confirmation that Ralph Lauren’s style is still alive, evolving, and losing none of its power.
The Fall/Winter 2026 show, then, was more than a presentation of a collection. It was a reminder that American style, in its most authentic form, is not a trend but a narrative. And Ralph Lauren remains its most important storyteller.
Photos courtesy of Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
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