“I was never really interested in fantasy,” confessed Dario Vitale, the newly appointed creative director of Versace, moments before his debut collection hit the runway in Milan. His first show for the house was not about dreamlike escapes or cinematic illusions, but about everyday clothes infused with retro energy and a hint of streetwear spirit.
The shift had already been teased weeks earlier, when Julia Roberts walked the Venice Film Festival red carpet in a simple Versace blazer and jeans. The understated look sparked online debate and hinted at Vitale’s vision: a Versace less about spectacle, more about reality.
Vitale made it clear that his aim was to bring the brand closer to people’s actual lives. For him, authenticity and relevance outweigh any fantasy driven storytelling. His debut collection unfolded at the historic Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, home to priceless works of art and a bust of Medusa, Versace’s enduring emblem. But instead of couture gowns and Hollywood dazzle, what appeared on the runway was a kaleidoscope of T-shirts, sweaters, vests, and jeans all pulsing with fearless retro flair.
Vitale reached into the brand’s archives, playfully echoing the iconic Warhol-inspired Marilyn prints from Gianni Versace’s 1991 collection. Yet instead of celebrities, his hand-painted portraits portrayed anonymous faces, vaguely reminiscent of Jackie Kennedy, Sophia Loren, or Rudolph Valentino. It was less about idol worship, more about cultural memory refracted through his own lens.
Sex appeal, however, remained firmly in place only translated differently. Cropped tops barely skimming the body, undone denim flies, and jeans pulled high and tight to recall the Castro in the mid-’80s created a sensual yet irreverent mood. The effect was gritty, urban, and deliberately provocative, closer to vintage thrift shops than the polished glamour Versace has long been associated with.
That contrast was striking. For nearly three decades, Donatella Versace defined the house through unapologetic luxury and red-carpet dominance. Now, Vitale pushes the brand toward something rawer and less staged. Donatella, appointed global ambassador after passing him the creative torch, did not attend the show, underscoring the symbolic weight of this handover.
Before stepping into this role, Vitale immersed himself in the founder’s world: touring Gianni’s homes in Milan and Miami, examining his art collections, and even reading his handwritten correspondence. “Sometimes you learn more about a person from their stationery than from a dress,” he reflected. This research shaped his storytelling approach, which framed the runway like the aftermath of an all night party unmade beds, makeup stained cotton pads, clothes strewn across the floor, all set to the sounds of George Michael and Prince.
“Versace is about people who want to dance, sweat, and have fun,” Vitale explained. For him, glamour is not just a sequined gown it could just as well be a perfectly cut pair of striped jeans paired with an embroidered leather vest worth a fortune. It’s about joy, movement, and the beauty of imperfection.
The result was bold, divisive, and refreshingly human. Versace Spring 2026 isn’t an escapist fantasy it’s a reality check. Vitale doesn’t want us to dream of another world. He wants us to live, dance, and celebrate in this one.
Photos courtesy of Versace
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