After several years of silence, Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy is officially bringing back his namesake label, which he originally shut down in 2018. Once considered one of the most influential voices in post-Soviet streetwear of the 2010s, Rubchinskiy told Business of Fashion that he is ready to “start everything from scratch” and open a new chapter in his career.
The relaunch begins with a focus on wardrobe essentials T-shirts, hoodies, and sweatpants designed for both men and women. According to the designer, this is part of a deliberate “It’s like building a house. You start with the foundation. That’s why we chose to begin with a basic line and later expand into something more sophisticated.” Over time, Rubchinskiy plans to add jeans, coats, and eventually even bespoke pieces and a dedicated womenswear collection.
The revival also comes with a stricter approach to casting, addressing the controversy that surrounded him in 2018. At the time, Rubchinskiy was accused of inappropriate behavior involving a minor allegations he firmly denied. Reflecting on the incident, he admitted that earlier methods of scouting models through text messages were misguided. From now on, casting will take place exclusively in a professional, in person environment with his team present.
Since pausing his label, Rubchinskiy has ended his collaboration with COMME des GARÇONS, stepped away from the brand Rassvet, and briefly took on the role of head of design at YEEZY before leaving to concentrate on his own work.
The new version of his brand will primarily sell through its online store, but Rubchinskiy also intends to partner with select retailers for special collections. Instead of traditional runway shows, he envisions a “small world tour” a series of more intimate presentations that will replace appearances at fashion weeks.
Photos courtesy of Gosha Rubchinskiy
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