“Surfing came up in our conversations almost immediately,” shared Julian Klausner backstage. “It’s something that happens every single day, yet there’s a majesty to it, a rhythm that feels endlessly inspiring and full of energy.” From this simple idea grew an entire season one that channeled the serenity of the ocean and the raw exhilaration of riding a wave, but reimagined through the opulent lens of Dries Van Noten.
Instead of literal surf culture references, the runway transformed the seaside into something dreamlike. Models moved as though they were otherworldly creatures rising from the depths, their silhouettes shimmering like exotic fish darting in sunlight. The color story alone was a dazzling spectacle: tangy lemon, tart lime, sweet mandarin, and an electric, almost phosphorescent green. Fabrics glistened with sequins that poured down sheer kaftans, while dresses scattered with crystals caught the light with every step, evoking the sparkle of sunlight breaking over the water’s surface.
“I love when a collection delivers optimism and joy,” Klausner explained. “Surfing embodies that balance of simplicity and transcendence it’s about the everyday transformed into something majestic.” This sentiment translated into Van Noten’s signature play with contrasts. Structured, two-tone tailored jackets met the fluidity of transparent organza skirts, creating a tension between precision and airiness. Boyish olive shorts, seemingly lifted from a utilitarian wardrobe, were unexpectedly decorated with lace-like embroidery, conjuring a sense of Victorian nostalgia.
One of the collection’s most striking statements came in the form of a sculptural wool top with sharply defined shoulders a garment that seemed equal parts wetsuit and classic T-shirt. Klausner described it as an homage to “the elegance of neoprene hugging the body,” and indeed, paired with a gossamer skirt that trailed across the runway, it elevated surfwear into haute couture territory. This juxtaposition between athleticism and fantasy became a recurring theme throughout the show, an undercurrent that grounded the extravagance in a modern sensibility.
One of the collection’s most striking statements came in the form of a sculptural wool top with sharply defined shoulders a garment that seemed equal parts wetsuit and classic T-shirt. Klausner described it as an homage to “the elegance of neoprene hugging the body,” and indeed, paired with a gossamer skirt that trailed across the runway, it elevated surfwear into haute couture territory. This juxtaposition between athleticism and fantasy became a recurring theme throughout the show, an undercurrent that grounded the extravagance in a modern sensibility.
“Surfing came up in our conversations almost immediately,” shared Julian Klausner backstage. “It’s something that happens every single day, yet there’s a majesty to it, a rhythm that feels endlessly inspiring and full of energy.” From this simple idea grew an entire season one that channeled the serenity of the ocean and the raw exhilaration of riding a wave, but reimagined through the opulent lens of Dries Van Noten.
Instead of literal surf culture references, the runway transformed the seaside into something dreamlike. Models moved as though they were otherworldly creatures rising from the depths, their silhouettes shimmering like exotic fish darting in sunlight. The color story alone was a dazzling spectacle: tangy lemon, tart lime, sweet mandarin, and an electric, almost phosphorescent green. Fabrics glistened with sequins that poured down sheer kaftans, while dresses scattered with crystals caught the light with every step, evoking the sparkle of sunlight breaking over the water’s surface.
Yet Van Noten never neglects the wardrobe essentials. Among the showpieces appeared fluid jersey blouses adorned with dramatic shoulder ruffles, their movement echoing the swell of a rising tide. Military coats and jackets introduced another layer of narrative, infused with hints of Sgt. Pepper flamboyance. Some swept gracefully to the ankles, others glowed in high-voltage hues: canary yellow wool, midnight-hued velvet, Delft blue, creamy ivory, and deep burgundy. The interplay of color and texture reflected not only the natural spectrum of the ocean at different hours of the day but also the designer’s enduring fascination with unexpected harmonies.
Footwear punctuated the collection with a burst of freedom. Sneakers, offered in every imaginable shade of the rainbow, reinforced the optimism that defined the season. Their casual, almost rebellious spirit contrasted against the opulence of the garments, infusing the runway with youthful energy and a sense of lighthearted ease. It was as though Van Noten had bottled the sensation of a summer sunset fleeting, vibrant, impossible to forget and distilled it into wearable art.
With Spring 2026, Dries Van Noten delivered not merely a collection but an invitation: to embrace joy, to rediscover the thrill of nature, and to see beauty in both the ordinary and the extraordinary. It is a season built on contrasts structure and fluidity, athleticism and couture, simplicity and opulence but above all, it is a celebration of freedom. On this runway, catching the wave was less about sport and more about surrender: to color, to movement, and to the pure exhilaration of being alive.
Photos courtesy of Dries Van Noten
No comments:
Post a Comment