Veronica Leoni’s second collection for Calvin Klein turned out to be a true manifesto of urban minimalism. After a debut in February that received mixed reactions, this season she proved her ability to capture the essence of the brand: raw beauty, sensuality, and timeless simplicity. Presented at the Brant Foundation in downtown Manhattan, the show was more than a runway it was a narrative about what Calvin Klein means in the present day.
For Leoni, the strength of Calvin Klein has always been more than clothes it’s an attitude, a way of being that resonates across culture. She explained that her mission is to filter this legacy through her own lens: staying connected to familiar brand codes while adding her own personal twist and a contemporary perspective. If her debut was a reset, this collection was a stronger, more energetic statement built on luxurious fabrics and cohesive world-building.
The impact of the show was amplified not only by the clothes but also by the audience. Solange Knowles, Emily Ratajkowski, and Lily Collins sat in the front row alongside RosalĂa, Jalen Green, Tontawan Tantivejakul, and Jung Kook—the new faces of Calvin Klein campaigns. The collection thus became as much a cultural moment as a fashion one.
Leoni drew inspiration from fleeting moments in New York City life snapshots of accidental beauty seen at dawn or late at night, when the city is stripped of its filters. This intimacy informed a collection that balanced stark minimalism with subtle sensuality. The runway opened with apron-like silk and cotton dresses, followed by tailored sets with plunging jackets exposing technical balconette bras. Draped silk foulard dresses, including one in a 1974 archival floral print, emphasized sensual exposure, while monastic coats spoke to Calvin Klein’s legacy of restraint.
Leoni described her mood as “9 a.m. and 9 p.m.” the same woman running for coffee in a gray leather trench and moccasin sneakers in the morning, then returning home at night, slipping out of a butter-yellow leather dress and into a luxe robe like coat. This tension between everyday realism and cinematic sensuality defined the entire collection.
There were also playful nods to American pop culture. Bold-shouldered “Dynasty” gowns were softened in cotton-silk jersey, power dressing became relaxed and fluid, while oversized cargo shorts, men’s technical tailoring, and cheeky organza cheerleader pompoms brought a sense of irreverence to the minimalism.
And of course, denim and underwear the foundation of Calvin Klein. Leoni leaned into the cultural “fetish” of the brand’s logo bands, reimagining them in couture tweed dresses, eyewear, and casual boxer-inspired silhouettes. As she explained, it was not only about revisiting brand heritage but also about fully embracing underwear as part of Calvin Klein’s future identity.
Leoni’s second outing was proof that Calvin Klein remains relevant, powerful, and contemporary. The collection struck a balance between familiarity and reinvention, weaving together minimalism, intimacy, and sensuality into a cinematic portrait of New York and the people who live in it.
Photos courtesy of Calvin Klein
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