Simon Porte Jacquemus is once again pushing the boundaries of fashion—this time by transporting us to the monumental Orangerie of Versailles. In a place where marble columns still echo royal whispers and sunlight filters through towering windows like scenes from an Éric Rohmer film, the French designer weaves his most intimate story yet. This was not merely a celebration marking the close of menswear week—it was a sensual manifesto, an homage to familial memory and heritage, stitched into every pleat and fold.
On the runway—like phantoms from another era—models floated by, draped in ultra-light, transparent fabrics that didn’t simply dress the body, but rather caressed it. One of the most mesmerizing moments belonged to a black silhouette: a long, airy gown crafted from sheer jersey, appearing from afar like smoke or shadow. Oversized sleeves, finished with tassels reminiscent of a baroque lampshade, swayed with each step, evoking both courtly elegance and modern, deconstructed poetry. The look was simultaneously dramatic and elusive—as though it existed somewhere between reality and reverie.
Jacquemus boldly flirts with classicism, reinterpreting silhouettes through transparency, proportion, and touches of haute couture. In his world, white cotton is no longer humble—here, it becomes a narrative tool. We see it in delicate slip dresses with Greco-Roman undertones, and in more sculptural creations: voluminous skirts paired with cinched waists, almost corset-like in precision. He embraces contrast—between volume and minimalism, tradition and sensual innovation. It’s a dialogue that whispers, yet asserts, a vision of femininity that is all at once gentle, strong, ethereal, and unapologetically corporeal.
This show was not just a fashion statement. It was an emotional homecoming—familial, aesthetic, cultural. Jacquemus openly referenced his roots, inspired by his family and the sun-drenched landscapes of southern France, where light, texture, and scent resonate with deeper intensity. Each look felt like a page torn from a visual diary: a childhood curtain reborn as a gown, the memory of a grandmother’s dress reimagined in the gathering of fabric. It becomes clear—Jacquemus doesn’t merely design garments. He translates memory into emotion, emotion into cloth.
If fashion is a language, then Jacquemus today speaks in the most exquisite French whisper—and the world listens. For though his style might seem restrained, his message is rich with subtlety, nuance, and emotional depth. In an era where many shows are lost in spectacle, Jacquemus reminds us that power lives in stillness—in a clean line, a flicker of light on a sheer surface, the delicate movement of fabric stirred by breath alone.
Photos courtesy of Jacquemus
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